Post #16 – An Interview with Aurelio Montes (By Carlissa De Rose & Lisa Andrews)
For someone raised in a big city with no background, connection or awareness of the world of wine, Aurelio Montes remarkably is now considered one of the most influential and inspirational winemakers of Chile today. I was both nervous and humbled by the opportunity to interview one of the industry’s most well respected movers and was grateful that Carlissa was there with me. On his North American tour, Aurelio Montes was kind enough to squeeze Carlissa and I into his busy Toronto schedule for what was to be a quick interview. ‘Quick’ went out the window as the interview, almost naturally, stretched into over an hour long of casual conversations and shooting the breeze. His articulate and professional manners were balanced by his down to earth and approachable nature and it was all too easy to get lost in his passionate dissertations. We did however manage to get a few of the questions and answers down for you! Might I also suggest a glass of Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Aurelio’s favourite collection to get you in the mood?
CD: As your family was not involved in the wine industry, how did your passion for fine wine develop and why did you get into the industry?
AM: Growing up I always wanted to be outdoors as I liked open spaces and decided to study agronomy at University. When I got to University, there were winemaking classes offered and I decided to learn more about wine. It was then that I realized I had a passion for wine, fine wine especially. As soon as I started working in the industry, I knew it was my calling and that this was where I belonged.
CD: What do you enjoy most about winemaking?
AM: One of the parts that I enjoy the most is being really involved in the viticulture; I love walking in the vineyards and studying the grapes as this aspect is more of a challenge for me and I like challenges.
LA: What are some of the challenges and victories you face in Napa that you don’t in Chile or Argentina logistically speaking and do you find this affects the price points at which you can sell the wines?
AM: Well you see, the land, and in California particularly is much more expensive and so is labour and things like that, so there really is no large profit in these regions unless you have the deep pockets to support it. Besides that, we rent a winery and use grapes from some of the regions premium vineyards to help with the cost but still be able to produce good wine. For me it is more of a spiritual endeavour, and to be able to succeed in these regions. To be able to produce a quality wine in a different region and of course the learning that comes with it is most important. So yes, it is more expensive to produce, and yes, it affects the price but it is not after all the profit that is most important, but rather the learning, growth and achievement of producing quality wines in regions outside of Chile.
CD: What made you choose these particular regions?
AM: Well, there were a lot of areas that showed potential but I decided to start expanding in Argentina for two reasons: first to experiment with growing grapes there and wanted to learn more about their tannin structure, and second, the proximity to my Chilean operations. Grapes tend to grow faster in Argentina than Chile and I realized that we could make a larger volume of wine for a slightly lower cost which would mean more of a profit, so it was beneficial for us to get started. After I had conquered that market and was successful in exporting Argentinean wine, starting a vineyard in California sounded like a great idea. I had always loved visiting Napa so as soon as I needed a new challenge, I knew immediately that Napa was it! And with harvests at two different times of the year, it definitely keeps me busy!
LA: You export about 94% of your wines internationally. Was it your first intention to sell internationally with Montes Premium` Wines instead of building a reputation at home? Why?
AM: There is a saying, “there is no profit in your own land”, and this is true, even for Chile. When we first started it was difficult because of the number of established wineries that already existed in Chile. It is a challenge to compete in any industry when there are already so many players in the game. Some additional factors that influence a winery to go into export include wine consumption and sales that are different for each country. We decided at an early stage that we wanted to bring the wines of Chile to the world. We want to establish ourselves on a world stage as a producer of quality wine. This outside recognition of Chile, especially the discovery of Chile in England, captures the attention of the people at home. Once you are able to establish yourself on a world stage, people at home will recognize what it is that you are doing.
LA: Do you believe that wine regions must first gain recognition internationally to gain a reputation at home?
AM: There are different cases to be made for each country. Each country is in a different situation regarding consumption, sales and history of winemaking and of course the direction that they are seeking. A country low in consumption such as Chile, it is important to seek that global recognition. I feel the same is true for Canada; to succeed abroad first will bring success at home.
CD: The image of Chilean wines has accelerated and gained tremendous popularity in the last ten years and is catching up with traditional old world leaders such as France and Italy. Has there been an increase in the number of people, namely winemakers or viticulturists moving into Chile to try to purchase land and start their own wineries?
AM: There have been a few quality winemakers from France that have come over to Chile to consult and make wine here but the majority of the viticulturists and winemakers are local which is great for the economy.
CD: What about the Chilean government, do they assist in promoting or helping Chilean wineries gain recognition?
AM: The government lends little support but ProChile does help export our wines. ProChile is an organization that helps certain wineries and other Chilean companies promote and export their products internationally.
LA: Consumption of wine being much lower in Chile as compared to other regions in the world, do you see that changing with the gaining popularity of the region? Are there any movements to support the local industry in Chile or do you see gross national income a strong barrier for the domestic market?
AM: 35 years ago, consumption in Chile was 50 litres per capita; we were a wine drinking nation. This number over the years dropped to 12 litres per capita and has only recently to this day increased to 18 litres per capita. We are just starting to see a turn-around. I think that Chileans are drinking less wine than they had 35 years ago however; the wines that they are drinking are of higher quality and perceived to be a healthier choice. Chileans are incredibly proud of their local wines and if you were to walk into any wine store in Chile you would see that 98% of what they carry is domestic product. Yes there is tremendous support for the local wine industry.
LA: How do you think the conglomeration of wineries on a now global scale will affect the industry ten years down the road? Will small independent artisanal wineries be able to stay afloat without being bought up?
AM: I cannot offer a real answer to that question however common sense would tell us that there is no chance of survival for these smaller boutique wineries. The wine industry is a glamorous business to be in. Most wineries are not truly profitable and are often supported by other businesses or industries as a pet project for the wealthy. A symbol of status. I don’t think that it is all bad news, Rosemount and their relationship with Southcorp Wines is an excellent case of this idea of excellence versus numbers. In most situations when a smaller winery is bought up by a larger company, they are given enough autonomy to maintain their excellence while increasing exposure and opportunity in sales along with improvements to winemaking and production practices. It may not always be the case but it is surely a way for these wineries to not only survive but thrive in an ever competitive industry. On a trip to France, even the best of the best are in this same situation. One thing I can say about it is… the improved sustainability and timeliness of a smaller winery in forming these partnerships is a good thing.
CD: Why did you decide on choosing the Institute of Masters of Wine for the scholarship?
AM: We decided it was time to promote wine education in growing minds. We chose the Masters of Wine as our partner for this scholarship because we believe they many of the candidates and sommeliers are the future leaders of the wine world and we want to encourage them to think seriously about wine. Every year we accept international essays from either students or graduates of the Masters of Wine program on a specific topic that changes annually. The winner receives a grand prize of cash and a trip to Chile.
CD: When you are not drinking your own wines, what else do you drink?
AM: I like to try other Chilean wines to compare them to my own primarily, but I really like red Bordeaux and Napa Cabs as well. When I am not drinking wine, I also really enjoy a good gin and tonic!
LA: A new trend with new world wines in restaurants is wine on tap. Would you ever consider selling any of your wines in restaurants out of a keg?
AM: I am actually not terribly reluctant to this idea. It is something I have not given much consideration to however with technology improvements this may be a something to look into. Wines by the glass are definitely an important market in restaurant sales however I would not be inclined to put my wines in the same category as jug or bulk products. It was not too long ago that my sales and marketing director was trying to convince me to sell my wine through Costco. At first I thought he must be absolutely mad to even suggest Costco as a retail outlet! It wasn’t until he showed me the other premium brand wines that are already being sold there that I was convinced it may be a very reasonable option. If Latour or Margaux are selling wines from the tap I would of course consider putting mine right there next to them.
On behalf of Carlissa and myself I would like to send a special thanks to Angela and Steve for making this interview possible and also to the Spoke Club for hosting our special guest.
Cheers,
Carlissa De Rose & Lisa Andrews
